This one im used cooper wire with silver plated colour.Swarovski crystal n im also put another pcs of swarovski pearl to be dangling.Hematite blank bead very nice to be heringbone design...
HOW TO MAKE A PHOTO BOX
I wanted to share my knowledge on how to take good photos of jewelry
and other small objects. I created a "Photo Box" which is easy to
construct and use! I've noticed that a lot of people (in general)
could use this method I use.
ITEMS YOU NEED
12x12x12 box
14 x 10 piece of plexy glass or glass
a knife
background paper (scrapbooking paper is great from craft store)
wax paper
60-100 watt light
How to put it all together:
1) Take your 12x12x12 box and cut out one side. Keep the bottom of
your box intact.
2) (open side you just cut out) Measure 9 inches from the bottom and
make a slit all the way to the back of the box on both sides. Do not
cut the back of the box.
3) Slide your glass into the slits of the box
4) Take the wax paper and tape it over the light source. The
wax paper is used to defuse the light.
5) Aim the light towards the opening of your box.
6) Lay your background on the bottom of your box as your background.
7) Shine your light into to open area of the box. Take your photos from the
back of the box... with the light facing you.
Your camera should focus on the jewelry or small object. The
background will be fuzzy due to the distance of the background from
the object.
Unlike the rawhide hammer, a ballpein hammer (aka ball peen) can mark your metal; however, you may actually want it to do that on purpose. That’s exactly what I used it for when I made my Easy Cuff Bracelet. You’ll notice these hammers are made of steel and have a flat side and a rounded side to the hammer’s head. You can find these available at metal jewelry suppliers as well as some hardware stores. They range in price and size any where from about $4 and up.
Along with texturing metal, you can use a hammer like this to shape metal as well. If you are concerned about marking metal with a steel hammer, you can always wrap your metal with a piece of leather to protect it.
A rawhide hammer is, as the name implies, partially made of rawhide. The handle is usual wood and the head is rawhide. (Dog owners beware to keep this out of site and smell of your four-legged friends!) These range in price from $15 to $20. The hammer pictured is available at wire-sculpture.com/ and most suppliers who sell wire or metal related tools will have rawhide and other types of hammers available.
These hammers are used for a number of reasons. One use of this hammer is to work harden it, which means you will harden the metal. Any time you hammer, bend, or stretch metal, you are making it harder. So a rawhide hammer is helpful for his because it won’t mark your metal.
Another use for a rawhide hammer is to just flatten a piece of metal. For example, maybe you cut out a shape, like a metal star, using tin snips, and your star is no longer flat. You can use this hammer to flatten it out again.
Introduction
It’s hammer time! I had to say that, sorry. Seriously, though, of all the tools you’ll have in your tool box or at your work bench, hammers can be a metal worker’s best friend, and they are really essential to the processes of fabricating metal. Both jewelry makers who work with wire and metalsmiths who work with materials such as metal plating use hammers to harden metals, straighten them, or even texture them sometimes. So they are really tools that are considered multi-taskers.
While there are a surprising variety of hammers available to jewelers, ranging from size and materials they are made of, I’m going to cover two of the “must have” hammers in this article. Most jewelry makers will find over time and practice that they may gravitate to other types of hammers, but this is an individual decision based on preference and the type of jewelry you make.
Therefore, while I suggest you have a the two hammers I plan to cover here in your tool box – a rawhide hammer and a ballpein hammer – I also suggest you experiment with other hammers to see how they fit your metal jewelry making needs.
Once you have determined that your beaded jewelry item (necklace, bracelet, anklet, whatever it is) you can remove the piece from the bead board and finish it off using your choice of finishing technique, such as a crimp bead or a bead tip. The bracelet pictured was finished off using crimp beads.
Now you’re ready to go ahead and string up your beads onto your chosen stringing medium. The string pictured here is actually beading wire. On either side of the strung beads are bead stoppers, fabulous little gauges that help make sure you don’t lose your beads before you’re ready to finish.
You’ll notice that I have the strung beads back on the bead board. This is because it’s a good idea after stringing to double check that you have the desired length. You’ll also notice that my strand is a little longer than 6 inches. This is because I am allowing about 1 inch or so for the clasp. This is something to always consider before finishing a piece of beaded jewelry.
the next step is to start determining where you want to place your beads in the design. If you already have a pattern to follow, great, just go ahead and put them in the correct order on your board. However, if you are not sure what pattern you plan to string yet, this is when a board becomes super handy. Just play with the arrangement of your beads, moving them into different configurations until you find a design that you like.
Once you have your bead board ready, it’s time to select your beads and start to add them to the groove in the board. At this point, don’t worry about length or what goes where, just get your beads together and start adding them to the board.
First, there are a few different types of bead boards, but most will at the very least have one long groove around the board where you set your beads as you prepare to string. On either side of this groove are markings and numbers. Each long mark represents an inch, and each of the shorter marks represent a half inch. These markings help you determine the final length of a piece of beaded jewelry. In the center of the board, are small extra compartments where you can store beads as you work.
First, there are a few different types of bead boards, but most will at the very least have one long groove around the board where you set your beads as you prepare to string. On either side of this groove are markings and numbers. Each long mark represents an inch, and each of the shorter marks represent a half inch. These markings help you determine the final length of a piece of beaded jewelry. In the center of the board, are small extra compartments where you can store beads as you work.
This 3 bracelet special order from customer.Customer give the budget n im design for them.The main material was Swarovki Crystal.
Welcome again to the new guys.Here i would to sharing my family photos.From that picture u can see i'm a mother of two kid.My first son was 2years old n my doughter around 7 month going to 8.
